Aesthetic doctor Elias Tam says there is no proof organic skincare products are better than the run-of-the-mill stuff.
He said: 'The biggest mistake that consumers make is that organic or natural equals zero side effects or allergies.'
People are and can be allergic to natural things. For example, he said, mangoes give some people sore throats. Whether natural or not, everything has benefits and potential risks, depending on the individual.
He said: 'If you want natural, why not just apply the fruit directly on your face? You get the natural goodness at a fraction of the cost.' For example, he advises his patients to apply cucumber slices onto their eyes to reduce puffiness.
Labelling a product 'organic' and 'natural' does not imply that the product is safe and has minimal potential to cause allergies, said the Health Sciences Authority (HSA).
It said: 'It is known that ingredients extracted from plants or animal sources can also cause allergic reactions. An example is lanolin, extracted from sheep wool, which is an ingredient in many moisturisers.'
Dr Wong Soon Tee, consultant dermatologist at Raffles Hospital, says: 'I think natural products as a whole have general appeal because people are sick and tired of chemicals and want something natural.'
But if you are sensitive to an ingredient, you will react against it - natural or unnatural. It is important to test any product before using it.
Said Dr Wong: 'As a safeguard, before you use a product on your face, put a spot on the inside of your elbow joint every day for a week. An allergic reaction takes time to develop.' If there is no reaction, you can use the product safely.
If you get a reaction, bring it to a dermatologist, who can do a patch test to find out which ingredient is causing it.
The HSA advises consumers always to buy products from reputable and reliable sources, and which have adequate label information that you can check for specific ingredients you may be sensitive to.
The director of the National Skin Centre, Associate Professor Roy Chan, warns consumers not to be swayed by exotic ingredients or extracts. 'They do not really have a role in the formulation, but add to the cost of the product,' he said.
Ultimately, when it comes to skincare, Dr Tam said the most important thing is a good sunblock. Photo-damage accounts for 80 per cent of skin ageing. The other necessities are a good facial cleanser and toner to cleanse and maintain the pH balance, and finally a moisturiser.
For people with normal skin, he said, paying a premium for organic products may not be worth the cost, as the benefits may only be marginal.
E-mail: elainey@sph.com.sg - Additional reporting by Lim Wei Chean
Like most purveyors of organic products, Mr Kervin Tan from Botanic Source is a believer.
He uses organic products, which soothe his stress-triggered eczema flare-ups, where chemicals aggravate them.
Another convert is Ms Caroline Kan, director of the distribution company for Dr Haushka skincare products in Singapore and Malaysia.
She had eczema on her face, which would present itself as raw patches of rough and flaky skin.
She says: 'I tried almost every skincare product on the market and found some relief from essential oils, though that was temporary.'
Ten years ago, she was introduced to Dr Haushka products during a natural products convention in America.
With daily usage of the cleansing milk and facial toner, her skin slowly and steadily became less irritated, red and raw.
It took a year for her skin to heal, but now there is not even a hint of her past problems.
Both Mr Tan and Ms Kan ended up working in the industry that helped them.
Director of Sccube the Apothecary in Centrepoint Yap Eng Kian notes that some studies have found that organic fruit and oils have significantly higher percentages of phyto-nutrients, vitamins and powerful anti-oxidants than non-organic fruits and oils.
Advocates say that organic products are gentler on the skin and are more effective than synthetic alternatives. Also, chemicals found in skincare products can be absorbed into the skin and could affect overall health.
Many organic supporters believe that these chemicals are linked to cancer. But don't expect miracle potions that transform you into an airbrushed beauty.
Says Mr Tan: 'You need to know what you want to achieve. Organic products can only take you so far. It's all about lifestyle. Going out every night for 10 vodkas and a pork knuckle isn't going to give you good skin, no matter how many high-grade organic products you are using.'
Followers of the pure product movement suggest you avoid the following ingredients if you want to follow a chemical-free skincare regime.
Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) These are ammonia compounds found in products as emulsifiers and foaming agents, and are used to adjust the pH balance. They are thought to cause eye problems, and hair and skin dryness.
Diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea Known as Germall II and Germall 115, these are the most commonly used preservatives after the parabens. The American Academy of Dermatology has established them as primary causes of contact dermatitis.
Paraben (Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl) A synthetic preservative that is commonly used to extend shelf life in products by inhibiting microbial growth. Though used widely for years, detractors say it is linked to skin rashes and allergic reactions.
Propylene Glycol This is a synthetic petrochemical used to attract moisture to the skin. It may cause itching, burning, scaling, hives and blistering of the skin, and exacerbate eczema. Also beware of PEG (polyethylene glycol) and PPG (polypropylene glycol).
PVP/VA Copolymer A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays, styling aids and other cosmetics. Inhaled particles can affect the lungs of those sensitive to it.
Petrochemical and Petrolatum Due to its low cost, this mineral oil jelly is commonly used in personal care products. When applied, it prevents the skin from breathing, leading to skin dryness and chapping.
Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate This synthetic substance is used in shampoos for cleaning and foam building. It is known to cause allergic reactions, eye irritation, scalp scurf similar to dandruff and skin rashes.
Stearalkonium Chloride Developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener, the chemical is used in hair conditioners and creams. It can cause allergic reactions.
Synthetic colours These, along with synthetic hair dyes, are labelled as FD&C or D&C, followed by a colour and number. They are derived mainly from coal tar, which can cause skin irritations and photosensitivity.
Synthetic fragrances When a label lists 'fragrance', it can refer to a combination of as many as 200 synthetic and toxic ingredients. Some health issues associated with artificial fragrances include headaches, dizziness, rash, hyper-pigmentation, nausea and skin irritation.
