Muthu's famous fish-head curry has gone healthy and Theresa Tan is happy to say that the new outlet has more on offer

It is no exaggeration to say that the recipe for the famous Muthu's fish-head curry is a closely-guarded 'family secret'.

Only two sons of the restaurant's late founder know exactly what goes into the curry that earned Muthu's its fame and very likely, their fortune too.

The sons portion out the spices for the curry every single day. And they have to take turns to go on leave - so that one of them is around to carry out the all-important task of preparing the spice mix.

Their chefs then take the mix and cook according to the recipe they have been given.

And after 37 years, which is considered a long long time in the dining scene by today's standards, Muthu's fish-head curry still pulls in the crowds.

I was at its second outlet at Suntec City during a weekday lunch hour to try their healthier dishes, and the place was almost full.

And if you are wondering, yes, the signature fish-head curry is one of the 16 items on its healthier menu.

The curry remains a potent brew - a burst of spices such as tamarind, coriander and chilli powder.

While it is not as rich as the Chinese version (it has less coconut milk), it is definitely more fiery than its Chinese cousins and more sourish too (probably from the tamarind).

The snapper flesh is, as expected, suitably tender.

So how is this fish-head healthier, I hear you ask?

According to Health Promotion Board (HPB) nutritionist Corina Chan, Muthu's chefs have cut down on the amount of coconut milk, salt and oil used in the dish.

Also, they no longer use artificial colouring to make their dishes appear more attractive, said assistant restaurant manager Raju Thirumal.

The flip side is that prices have inched up with the passing years. Now, the smallest fish-head is priced at $20, up from $18 in 2004 according to a Straits Times report.

The trade-off is, you get to dine in a classier environment. Muthu's website claims that the restaurant boasts of a 'zen-inspired' dining space.

Besides South Indian fare, Muthu's also started serving North Indian cuisine such as tandoori items and naan about two years back.

Yet with more items on offer, its menu turns out to be a minefield of hits and misses, depending on what you order.

For example, the murgh pudina kebab ($9) is yummy. The chef managed to keep the skinless chicken chunks succulent, plus the minty marinade came off nicely.

On the other hand, the tandoori mushrooms were disappointing. Instead of using fresh button mushrooms, the kitchen opted for canned ones.

The brinjal masala ($3 for small portion) was so-so, but I loved their naan, which was soft, fluffy and reminded me of freshly baked bread. Just the thing to soak up the fish-head curry.

While Muthu's will probably have its fans and its critics, it's still a pretty decent place to go to try the Indian interpretation of fish-head curry.

WHERE TO GO: Muthu's Curry is at 138 Race Course Road and #B1-056 at Suntec City Mall.

Call 6392-1722 for the Race Course branch and 6835-7707 for the Suntec branch.

For the list of restaurants serving Healthier Choices, go to http://www.hpb.gov.sg/healthierdining

This story first appeared in Mind Your Body on Dec 27, 2006.