Sept 29 - TECHNOLOGY continues to pervade the beauty sector, and facials today aren't just about deep-cleansing and pampering the skin, but are intended to stimulate collagen growth too. The use of stem cells, nanotechnology, and gamma rays - all are being tapped for the purpose of making you look younger.

The use of stem cells might still be controversial in other biomedical sectors, but it's now available in aesthetics. At The Sloane Clinic, the newest of the new is Stem Cell Mesotherapy for anti-ageing, wrinkle and pigment reduction for the face, as well as scalp rejuvenation for those who want more hair.

'The stem cells used here are injected into the area, and it's possible because they are stem cells harvested from human fat tissue,' explains Dr Low Chai Ling.

And you thought your fat was just there to annoy you. It seems that the stem cells harvested from human fat work well in the face. Stem cells in fact have the characteristic of 'plasticity' - which means the ability to give rise to all of the different tissues of the human body. Being unspecialised, they can clone themselves without limit; and they can differentiate into many cell types with specific functions.

AAPE (Advanced Adipocyte Protein Extract) is the protein extract from these stem cells. It's a mixture of growth factors that come from stem cells that are harvested from human fat, Dr Low says.

'Because these stem cells for aesthetics aren't harvested from embryos, there aren't ethical issues surrounding its use. Plus, this isn't derived from animals, so it's safer,' adds Dr Low.

AAPE uses proteins or 'chemical messengers' which signal your cells, teaching them to regenerate, when they're absorbed into the scalp or skin. 'What it does is to slow down ageing, and is particularly beneficial for patients with pigmentation, dull and ageing skins,' she says.

At The Sloane Clinic, the stem cells are mixed and activated only at point of use, as they do not have preservatives, so they can either be injected superficially or applied topically. For the face, for instance, they are injected superficially into various areas all over the face.

The treatment takes 40 minutes and there may be mild redness after the procedure, which will fade in 30 minutes or so. 'You can wear make-up and continue with normal activities as before,' says Dr Low.

Patients can expect an increase in elasticity and skin firmness after a few weeks as collagen levels are boosted. As AAPE also inhibits melanin synthesis, you will also notice a lightening of pigmentation. All for a cool $980 per session, or $4,900 for a course of six sessions.

What about safety issues? Dr Low says that the protein extracts from these stem cells (unfortunately, they can't be harvested from your own fat) have been certified safe for use by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association).

Over at beauty salon Cristalle de Paris on Temple Street, founder Micheline Ong has spent at least four years researching the benefits of plants. Lemieon (trademarked) is the result of a partnership with an American bio-technology laboratory. It has 100 per cent plant-based extracts and doesn't have preservatives or fragrances added to them.

'It's because the products - plant extracts - are mixed on the spot during a facial, and the nanotechnology ensures that it's well absorbed into the skin immediately,' says Ms Ong in Mandarin. She has been in the beauty industry for over 20 years, and has a PhD in business management.

She calls the extracts 'plant stem cells' because they are core extracts of plants, and fresh. Having active ingredients that are a 100,000th of the diameter of a human hair, they get activated just minutes before a facial treatment when different liquids and powders are mixed together, she explains. Lemieon is specially blended and customised to the clients' skins and Ms Ong has many possible formulations.

Lemieon is said to improve skin tone and texture, reduce uneven pigmentation of the skin, diminish lines and wrinkles, fade age spots and provide whitening. If it sounds a lot like the effect of regenerating collagen, Ms Ong says that's exactly what happens.

The collagen is apparently stimulated by the products which are absorbed after being applied on the skin. True enough, after a session one can feel one's face feeling a little warm, like how it feels after a Thermage or Laser Toning course but not as intense.

During the treatment as well, when the Lemieon mask is put on, there is an itchy, tingling effect on the face for a few minutes.

It's such a new treatment that Ms Ong is still working out the pricing of it, but she says it will be half of what Thermage costs, so it would be a few thousand dollars. It might be a stretch to call it the equivalent of botox, and it takes a bit of convincing to fully absorb all Ms Ong's claims for the effects of Lemieon, but it's quite clear that she has a good eye for skin, being able to assess your skin condition correctly with just a glance.

In fact, she'll spend some time demonstrating the efficacy of Lemieon to customers, and showing them how the blends are made, while explaining before a treatment what blend will be given to them for their specific skin condition. 'I know it's hard to accept the product just like that, because it's so new to the market,' she says.

Another new product in the market is the patented y-PGA, or gamma polygultamic acid, used in facial treatments at Leonard Drake Skin Care and Health Spa.

Supposed to be one of the most potent hydrating agents ever discovered, y-PGA is used in the facial treatments designed to optimise the effectiveness of the facial booster.

After it is applied like a mask on the face, a red or blue light is shone on the face, while nano-mist (where the size of a water drop can be minimised to 4-8 um from its usual 30 um-sized molecule) is sprayed onto the face.

It is a special facial spa system said to help the active ingredients from the facial booster penetrate deep into the skin.

Originally discovered in marine jellyfish, y-PGA is a fermented extract of natto germ. This substance apparently has the ability to form a smooth yet elastic, self-moisturising soft film on the skin, making it the latest generation of highly advanced ingredients to be formulated in moisturisers. One gram of y-PGA hydrogel is able to absorb 4,600 times as much of water.

Besides acting as a hydrating agent for the skin, y-PGA is supposed also to be an excellent 'carrier' for other ingredients. It has the ability to increase the effect of active ingredients, say its advocates. They say it contains abundant negative charges which can be bonded with positive charges in most of the active ingredients, helping them penetrate deep into the skin, resulting in increased skin moisturising effects.

The red light therapy, they say, enhances micro-circulation and stimulates collagen synthesis, recommended for wrinkled and pigmented skin. Blue light therapy helps to calm and de-sensitise the skin, or so it is said.

Leonard Drake offers four treatment protocols now: The Gamma Barrier Repair (80 minutes at $250; six plus one treatments, $1,500) is for those with sensitive skin, the Gamma Pigment Relief (similar pricing) is for those with pigmented or dull skin that needs brightening. Then there are also Gamma treatments for those with acne-prone skin and wrinkles.

These new treatments are offered at The Sloane Clinic (Tel: 6533 2522) Cristalle de Salon (Tel: 6323 285) and all Leonard Drake outlets.