WHEN Diana Howard turned 50, she took the signs of visible ageing on her skin quite seriously.

The vice-president of technical development at skincare brand Dermalogica and postgraduate academy The International Dermal Institute wanted to create skincare products for her needs, but more importantly, she knew she had to do it for fellow women in her situation.

'I was annoyed by products that said they could remove wrinkles,' she says. 'Sure, we can soften them - but it is not scientifically possible to remove them completely. We owe it to our consumers to come out with a product that is a lot more honest in what we're offering them.'

The result is Dermalogica's AGE Smart skincare range, which launches in Singapore today.

The range of products, priced from $65-$350, comprises the Skin Resurfacing Cleanser, Antioxidant HydraMist, Renewal Lip Complex, MAP15-Regenerator, and Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30.

They are different from the other products in the market in that they combat ageing skin symptoms by addressing the root of the problem rather than by trying to reverse it, says Dr Howard.

'At Dermalogica, we don't even use the word 'anti-ageing'. Ageing is inevitable. What we want to do is help people optimise their skin condition, and age in an intelligent way,' she points out.

Based on three years of scientific research led by Dr Howard and Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand, AGE Smart targets the three most crucial biochemical reactions triggered by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the No 1 cause of ageing, explains Dr Howard.

These are the formation of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs), Advanced Glycation Endproducts (AGEs), and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS, or free radicals), which in essence, degrade collagen and elastin, the skin proteins responsible for elasticity, tone and texture.

The AGE Smart range, which works best when used together as a skincare system, provides a scientifically-advanced cocktail of active ingredients such as cell-renewing lactic acid, collagen stimulating peptides, and deep hydrating hyaluronic acid.

The star product, MAP-15 Regenerator, for example, is a unique formula that comes in powder form, but melts into a fluid emulsion when rubbed into the skin. It contains 10 per cent Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, the highly efficacious form of Vitamin C, which Dr Howard believes is the highest concentration in the market.

Apart from sharing her preventive skincare regime with AGE Smart, Dr Howard also wants to educate consumers on protecting against prematurely ageing skin.

Our biggest mistake? Not applying enough sunscreen, she says. She advocates layering the product on our face to get the right dosage of at least a teaspoonful.

We're also under the wrong impression that UV damage occurs only when we're out in the sun. In fact, warns Dr Howard, UV rays can come through the glass in your office, the windshield of your car, or even from energy-saving fluorescent light bulbs.

She also cautions against stripping the layer of lipids on your skin by over-exfoliating, washing with soap and water, or mixing incompatible skincare products, for example.

'When the lipids barrier is lifted, your skin becomes very vulnerable to dehydration, and pollutants can penetrate and irritate your skin. This causes inflammation, which in turn causes premature ageing.'

Dr Howard also recommends getting your face professionally analysed, to find out your skincare needs for the moment.

'Your skin is a dynamic organ - it fluctuates. What's right for you in January might not be right in June. Don't try to self-prescribe skincare products, just as you wouldn't self-medicate.'

The Dermalogica AGE Smart range is available at Leonard Drake Skin Care and Health Spa Centres, as well as at authorised Dermalogica skincare centres

This story was first published in The Business Times on June 7, 2008.